Shock tech

Fine Tune Dial:

How does the fine tune dial work? 

You can see the air valve on the left, and the dial on the right.


If you turn the dial out, positive and negative chamber have a connection. You can fill both chambers with the pump.


Due to the fact, that the negative side has less diameter then the positive side, it needs more pressure. So you do the following to set the shock up:


1. Open the fine tune dial

2. Increase or decrease the overall pressure with shock pump

3. Close the fine tune dial (now ONLY the negativ chamber gets inflated)

4. Inflate the negative chamber(just keep on pumping with closed FTD) about 5 bar more then overall pressure

5. Lift the bike, no hard topout?

6. Perfect - let the fine tune dial in this position (closed) and unmount the pump

7. Go and ride

Why is the piston rod that thin ?


Like you can see this shock is not built like an usual air shock. It is a series instead of parallel circuit of airspring and damping. This leeds to a little bit different look. This technique was sooner develeped from Denk Engineering for Scott bikes and later on for Cannondale Bikes. They have been ahead of time. 


In my case, the bigger the piston rod the smaller the surface of the negative chamber. And for equal forces from positive and negative chamber you need more pressure in the negative chamber due to the smaller surface. The bigger the piston rod would be, the higher the pressure in the negative chamber compared to the positive chamber.


That is why I tried to make it as thin as possible.


But then it will snap immediately ?


Just compare the rod of the Intend Hover with a piston rod of a coil shock (around 9mm steel) with the rod of the Hover (14mm, extreme high and long lasting piston aluminum). Which one do you think will snap sooner?


This shock needs a little bit more pressure than normal air shocks!


With this design you need a little bit more pressure compared to a normal air shock.


In average it is around 25 bar in the positive side. and around 30 bar in the negative side. Depends on the frame and the rider weight.


Why so much, and does this have a negative influence to the sensitivity ?


Don't worry. A normal air shock has around 15 bar in the positive side, and the surface of the negative side is around half of the size of the positive surface. This means, you also have around 30 bar in the negative chamber of a normal air shock. As it is self-adjusting with the air-bypass all the other shocks use. You do not see the pressure of the negative chamber, although it has to be higher than the amount of pressure shown on your shock pump.


So the Hover shock does NOT have more issues with high pressure influencing the sensitivity of the seals, because it does NOT have more pressure in the negative side compared to a normal air shock.


Calculated air spring.


Do you really think that a linear spring curve is only possible with a coil ?


I do not think so. The progression in the end is crucial for bottom out resistance (normaly done with a progression of the reservoir and the bottom out bumper).


As you can see, the first 2/3 of the stroke are kind of linear and you will not feel a difference with this shock.


You do not need a coil shock any more.

Volume spacers:


6 Orings + 1 M6 bolt on the PIT-Cap. 

The bleeding system


All oil/air systems have problem: air passes through the seals/surfaces while moving (compare Rock Shox Reverb, all air and coil shocks...). This depends on the seals, the surface quality and so on. You can't really avoid this, but you can handle with this issue as good as you can. Some say "it needs a service... 150 euro...".


Intend says: just bleed your shock in a easy way. In the picture below you can find the bleeding circuit integrated in the piston rod.


From the small shock eyelet you use a 2,5mm allen wrench and turn in the bolt unterneath. it opens a bleeding needle at the main piston (right side). While it is open you can press the rod down and all the air of the oilchamber will flow in the negative chamber, until you feel a hard stop of the oil wanting to move through the tiny trespass. Then close the bleeding.


-> Air from the oilchamber is in the airchamber again.


Go ahead riding :)